Kaiserschmarrn in a wide black iron pan at a stall of the Christmas market in Innsbruck's old town at dusk, the torn pancake caramelised at the edges, icing sugar sifting down like the snow falling beyond, steam backlit by a bulb behind, the snowy Nordkette faint above the roofs, 50mm, a palette of caramel, sugar white and dusk blue Ver mais