A surfer crouched deep in the barrel at Teahupo'o, Tahiti, a 29-year-old man with an athletic build, wavy dark brown hair to the collar, dark eyes, golden-brown skin, Pacific Islander features and a trimmed goatee, on a plain white board, the lip throwing a glassy curtain over him, morning sun behind the wave glowing green through it, 400mm. Ver m谩s